Fun, Modern, All Day Dining at Recess Eatery – Apparently Glendale Rocks
by guest blogger @iam_robot
Guess What? There’s a legit modern-dining in Glendale and it’s been there for 5 freakin’ years. Being a Glendale transplant for 15 years, I am deeply ashamed to never have heard Recess Eatery until two weeks ago.
Granted, it’s a stretch from tourist traps like Americana or Glendale Galleria
but the food offerings are leaps and bounds better than any of the
establishments there. Don’t tell me that Din Tai Fung is the greatest thing you
could have in Glendale. Last time I checked, they couldn’t serve my dumplings
hot and the “not supposed to be” ultra-thick skin tasted like cardboard. Don’t
get me started on Cheesecake Factory. Big portions and cheap don’t always sum up
to palatable. Bourbon Steak is okay. Good piece of rib-eye but
under-seasoned and flavorless at times and not worth that $80.
Okay, now, down to the good stuff. Recess Eatery is the
brainchild of Chef Sevan Abdessian. Following graduation from the Culinary
Institute in 1999, he began his journey in Patina Restaurant’s kitchen under
the rigorous training of Master Chef Joachim Splichal. After that, he worked
earnestly in the world of private chef for the likes of Adam Sandler, John
Travolta, and Rod Stewart. These days, other than at the restaurant, you can see him on Chopped, Cutthroat Kitchen, and season two of The Taste.
The ambiance at Recess Eatery feels like your favorite diner
(yes, the one where everybody knows your name) – small and sparsely decorated
yet intimate and cozy. Love the overall simplicity: dark booths, concrete
floor, reclaimed chandeliers, white tablecloth, small flowers in the jar, and
barely lit candle. There’s no big Sunflower setting in the host area or some
overpriced local artwork, the gaudiest interior touches are dark wooden frames
strewn along the wall. For Glendale, this is refreshing, as are the genuine feeling of welcome, warmth and friendliness from
everyone I encountered. Also, don’t forget the beautiful outdoor patio. The
patio features candle-bedecked tables, vine-covered roof and live Bossa nova. Warm romantic night? Look no further!
In a way, Recess is an all-day eatery, featuring Chef
Sevan’s interpretation of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-inspired fare. The
menu is customized to cater many different personalities. For Breakfast or
lunch, you can find your Buttermilk Waffles, Egg Benedict, or Gourmet Burger
along with Chef inspired salads like Edamame Fatoush, Caprese Vasken (tomato,
burrata, prosciutto, etc.), and Salmon Soba. But dinner is the way to go! I
can’t specify a genre but the lineup leans toward a Cal-Mediterranean cuisine
with some French and Asian influences. Heartier fares like Lamb Racks, Maine
Lobster, and Dungeness crab are served with lebni chimicurri or mizuna
(Japanese mustard).
Below are the dishes presented to me:
Duck Brie Flatbread
We started the night with a flatbread topped with crispy
duck, melted brie, gorgonzola, pears and dried figs. I love how the salty duck (presumably
cooked confit) balance out with the sweetness of the pears and the tanginess of
the figs. The brie was good too – creamy while providing subtle nuttiness to
the pizza. My slight criticism is that I wish there were more gorgonzola – I
was waiting for that strong salty pungent goodness – guess it just got masked
with all the other good stuff.
The Hobbit - Whole fried artichoke, chevre, red bell pepper
coulis, balsamic vinaigrette
In
essence, this is artichoke cooked “sous-vide”
then mashed up, filled with goat cheese and formed to look like a Falafel Ball.
It’s pretty much deep fried goodness from then on – fried to golden brown perfection
while the vinaigrette and bell pepper coulis added tang and cooling underneath.
I also love the aroma of the goat cheese – very robust with a distinct tart and
earthy flavor.
Steak Tartare
Probably one of the best Steak Tartare I’ve ever had in my life. Steak
had a silken supple texture and fused wonderfully with the richness of the
quail egg and herbaceous flavors of the red onion/ parsley combo. The capers
were a great addition as well – these pickled flower buds gave the dish a salty/
vinegary dimension.
Market Fish – Sea Bass with Risotto and Chestnut Mushroom
This was a very satisfying dish. Sea bass was roasted
flawlessly – tender and flaky yet flavorful. I’m glad the
seasoning didn’t overwhelm the fish' inherent brininess. I also like the side of
risotto here – the rice was cooked to a proper texture – crisp and savory
balancing the mushroom’s earthy taste. Overall, the whole dish is a blissful
symphony – loved the dominant flavor of butter, garlic, and onion.
The Graduate – Niman Ranch Veal Shank, Polenta, Corn,
Mushrooms, Grainy Mustard Demi
Hands down best dish of the night! The veal was quite
impeccable – tender, juicy and unabashedly savory. The polenta was wonderfully
creamy from milk/ butter emulsion and surprisingly sweet from the fresh corn.
Though I was a little leery the mustard demi might dominate the dish, the rich
brown sauce actually had a delicious spicy kick. I wish I
could eat a tub of these.
White Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake
We ended the night with Raspberry Cheesecake made with
layers of white cake, cream cheese, white chocolate, Irish cream and
raspberries. The slight tartness of the raspberries melded wonderfully with the
sweet, dense cream cheese, making for a sort of white chocolate mousse dessert,
while the Irish cream amplified the sweetness level. Thought I don’t normally
order cheesecake, this one was quite exceptional.
Overall, I think my experience at Recess is very memorable.
Recess has been established for a long time, and I’m glad to see Chef Sevan’s
daring approach and enthusiasm to surprise his guests. His style veers towards
traditional cooking with multilayered modern flavor combinations. It’s fun,
ambitious, and somewhat whimsical. Even if you decide to order gourmet burger
or eggs benedict, you can rest assured the dish will come out with a twist and
it will taste better than any other brunch out there. Trust me on this
one…drive down to the north side of Brand…take someone you want to impress…I
promise it’s worth it.
Recess Eatery
1102 N. Brand Blvd
Glendale CA 91202
(818) 507-0592
http://www.recesseatery.com/
Disclosure: this meal was hosted
Recess Eatery
1102 N. Brand Blvd
Glendale CA 91202
(818) 507-0592
http://www.recesseatery.com/

Disclosure: this meal was hosted
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