Tuesday, March 16, 2010

The Nasi Bungkus Roundup: 5 Banana-leaf Wraps, 60 miles.

It all started with a line in Jonathan Gold's LA Weekly article on Indo Cafe. In the last paragraph, he wrote:

But you could probably scour every Indonesian restaurant in California without finding another nasi bungkus, a sort of TV dinner of sautéed green beans, beef rend[a]ng and curried chicken wrapped with rice and a fiery green chile paste inside a banana leaf. (The leaf’s green fragrance works its way into the rice even in the few minutes it will be in front of you in the restaurant but is heaven itself unwrapped for lunch the next day.)
A marvelous description, to be sure, yet that opening line bugged me. I remembered Linda Burum's LA Times article about that same dish - at Java Spice in Rowland Heights. Granted theirs is only available on Saturdays and Sundays. But what about the restaurant just across the street from Indo Cafe, Simpang Asia? I was pretty sure they had nasi bungkus.

In the end, I decided to do a round-up. Yep, a nasi bungkus round-up. Because if you do scour - forget California, let's just focus on LA County - you can find other nasi bungkus.

First thing's first. What in the world is nasi bungkus?
The name itself just translates to "wrapped rice" and the dish is just that. Rice wrapped in banana leaf along with whatever lauk - meat, vegetables, or other accompaniments you'd want to put in. It really refers more to the packaging and a way of getting some food to-go than what is inside and is as ubiquitous in Indonesia as bento boxes are in Japan.
While the idea was that the banana leaf (natural and ubiquitous) will hold the oil, moisutre, and sauces in, it certainly didn't hurt that its fragrances seeps into the warm rice.

These days and in LA in particular though, certain staple items are expected to be found inside. An egg. Some beef rendang. Some sort of chicken, and of course some sort of vegetable medley.

I started my acquisitions with the easiest and closest:

Simpang Asia
10433 National Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90034

I ordered a nasi bungkus to go (because that's what nasi bungkus was meant to be in the first place). They wrapped the rice and further put it in a styrofoam box - a little redundant? - with a side of shrimp chips.
In this nasi bungkus ($6.99) they put white rice, chicken, beef rendang, vegetable curry (lodeh), potatoes with chicken gizzard, Balinese egg.
nb_simpang
Their chicken was surprisingly tender, but unfortunately the rendang wasn't as tender as it could've been. My favorite part was the morsels of delicious chicken gizzard chunks. The lodeh was also flavorful without being too spicy. Since lodeh is a coconut-based vegetable curry, it adds a richness to the dish and the part of the rice that has soaked up this curry sauce was incredibly delicious. The rice itself is for the most part fragrant after having been wrapped inside the banana leaf.

Next was the restaurant across the street that J Gold had visited:

Indo Cafe
10430 National Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90034-4664


Indo Cafe's nasi bungkus contained white rice, beef rendang, green beans, hard boiled egg, chicken curry, tofu/tempeh curry.
nb_indocafe
This was served with a dollop of green chile, which is traditionally from the Padang region in Sumatra. The rice did receive some fragrance from the banana leaf, but it wasn't as moist as Simpang Asia's. The beef rendang was more tender, however, and more than makes up for it. Surprisingly, my favorite part of the dish was the curried tofu and tempeh. The tempeh here was one of the better ones in the city, chewier and not as dry as others.

Java Spice
1743 Fullerton Road
Rowland Heights, CA 91748-2614
Java Spice on Urbanspoon

At one point I managed to enlist Wandering Chopsticks and Sinosoul and dragged them all the way to Rowland Heights for the LA Times-mentioned nasi bungkus at Java Spice.

Since it received such a great write-up and is only available on the weekends, Java Spice was packed on a Saturday night and service was painfully slow.

All that aside, let's focus on the dish we came for.
Inside: rice, marinated fried chicken (ayam kalasan), tofu, tempeh, telur kecap (egg boiled in soy sauce), and of course, beef rendang, jackfruit curry.
nb_javaspice
The rice was particularly fragrant and brought this dish to a whole new level. It was much more fragrant and rich I was suspecting that it might've been coconut rice, but it might've just been the results of the curry and sauces seeping through. The ayam kalasan was disappointing as it was too sweet, a little tough and didn't really go with the rest of the dish (so I thought - chicken curry in my nasi bungkus please). Putting the chicken aside, everything else was great. The rendang was very tender and so was the jackfruit curry - usually a rare sight unless you're eating nasi gudeg.

They also serve this with a side of green chili, which was also particularly good. Sinosoul had to ask for more chili even if he had to face the possibility of them spitting in it (we've been giving them a hard time for their service ...)

I thought I was almost done but just to check I called other Indonesian places that I knew and found yet another one that serves nasi bungkus!

Sate House
812 Nogales Avenue
Walnut, CA 91789-4170
Sate House on Urbanspoon

Like Java Spice, the nasi bungkus at Sate House is also only available on Saturdays and Sundays. I had to make this trek twice because the first Saturday I went they had already run out. I was on a mission, however, and thus made the 23 mile drive again the next weekend.

A little different this time. The beef rendang was there, with fried chicken and egg, but the green beans with tofu and tempeh were not curried but just boiled, and the whole thing was topped with some stir fried vermicelli.
nb_satehouse
I'm sure you all understand why everything is piled on top of the rice right? So that their sauces and juices will trickle down and douse the rice moist with spicy, flavorful sauce ...
Probably the least spicy of the five, I enjoyed this one quite a bit with the fork-tender beef and moist and tender chicken. The vermicelli was quite a nice touch as well, adding another dimension of texture.

I saved the furthest restaurant for last but finally made my way down to the 562 area, Bellflower.

Toko Rame
17155 Bellflower Blvd
Bellflower, CA 90706
Toko Rame on Urbanspoon
Toko Rame in Los Angeles

The nasi bungkus from Toko Rame had gotten a write-up a few years ago from Elmo Monster, a fellow foodblogger from Indonesia whom I unfortunately have not met.

Upon picking up my order I immediately thought "Wow, this is the heaviest one yet!" and upon opening it and seeing the red pile of rice, thought "Uh oh, this is gonna be the spiciest one .."
White rice topped with egg balado, beef rendang, fried chicken drumstick, lodeh (vegetable curry)
nasibungkus (1)
I sat a big bottle of water next to me and I was ready. Some people complain that the beef rendang found in this part of the world is just not as spicy as back home. Well, Toko Rame's is still not as spicy but it sure does pack a heat. The beef was earthy and tender, the chicken a little dry but had a nice turmeric flavor. The boiled cabbage on top was contrastingly unspiced which helped me tone down the spiciness but on the other hand could be detracting.

Toko Rame already mixed the rice with the chili paste for you, you see, instead of putting a dollop in a corner. The end result is an amazingly spicy and flavorful rice that you won't be able to stop eating even after you've finished all the meat and vegetables. If you can't, don't worry, just rewrap the rice for the next day... back in the banana leaf, of course.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

The "Legendary" Oxtail Soup at Hotel Borobudur (Jakarta, Indonesia)

Who's calling this ox tail soup legendary? I didn't start it, for sure. By the time I was enjoying food, Hotel Borobudur was already known for their "legendary oxtail soup."

The claim makes sense historically, as Hotel Borobudur is the first five star hotel in Indonesia. Being a 5-star hotel and all, the ox tail soup costs a ridiculous Rp. 150,000, which is a whopping $15. Well, putting it that way it seems affordable to try, so we went.

We had a super early dinner because my parents had to fly back to Surabaya around 6 pm. When we got there we realized we're missing both the lunch and dinner buffet! The dinner buffet would've cost $25 and came with all the ox tail soup you want, along with crab and other goodies. Dammit.

Besides your typical soft drinks, Hotel Borobudur also offers a couple of traditional drinks, one of them being a jamu which is said to be the favorite of an old king from Jogjakarta. Jamu is the medicinal herbal drink of Indonesia and its variety spans as many as the herbs you might think of to put in it.
This jamu is actually sweet and refreshing, without that medicinal funk at all.

We all got, of course, the ox tail soup. But Hotel Borobudur offers three types of sop buntut: the original, fried, or bbq.

The verdict of the day: get the original.

The oxtail meat in the original soup is much more tender and the soup as a whole retains more of the meat flavor.

For the fried and the barbequed, the meat is served dry, separated from the broth.

The oxtail meat is tougher in this case and having them fried or with bbq sauce on top didn't add much for me and did not compensate for the loss of the meat's tenderness.
Everything is of course served with a side of appropriate condiments - in this case lime to squeeze into the soup, pickled vegetables, and a dollop of chili sauce. Add to taste.

The questions "was it worth $15?" and "was it worth Rp. 150,000?" are completely different, even if the two monetary values are equivalent. In the latter case, probably not. If you're curious in trying this legendary oxtail soup, though, you should probably go for the buffet. That seemed worth the money.

Bogor Café at Hotel Borobudur
Jalan Lapangan Banteng Selatan
P.O.Box 1329
Jakarta 10710
Indonesia
Tel: (62-21) 3805555
http://www.hotelborobudur.com/

Indonesia: Jakarta/Bogor

JAKARTA
Restaurants:
Bogor Café Hotel Borobudur
Paradise Dynasty

Street Carts:
Popiah Tiong Sim

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BOGOR
Warung Doyong

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