by guest blogger @iam_robot
Guess What? There’s a legit modern-dining in Glendale and it’s been there for 5 freakin’ years. Being a Glendale transplant for 15 years, I am deeply ashamed to never have heard Recess Eatery until two weeks ago.
Granted, it’s a stretch from tourist traps like Americana or Glendale Galleria
but the food offerings are leaps and bounds better than any of the
establishments there. Don’t tell me that Din Tai Fung is the greatest thing you
could have in Glendale. Last time I checked, they couldn’t serve my dumplings
hot and the “not supposed to be” ultra-thick skin tasted like cardboard. Don’t
get me started on Cheesecake Factory. Big portions and cheap don’t always sum up
to palatable. Bourbon Steak is okay. Good piece of rib-eye but
under-seasoned and flavorless at times and not worth that $80.
Okay, now, down to the good stuff. Recess Eatery is the
brainchild of Chef Sevan Abdessian. Following graduation from the Culinary
Institute in 1999, he began his journey in Patina Restaurant’s kitchen under
the rigorous training of Master Chef Joachim Splichal. After that, he worked
earnestly in the world of private chef for the likes of Adam Sandler, John
Travolta, and Rod Stewart. These days, other than at the restaurant, you can see him on Chopped, Cutthroat Kitchen, and season two of The Taste.
The ambiance at Recess Eatery feels like your favorite diner
(yes, the one where everybody knows your name) – small and sparsely decorated
yet intimate and cozy. Love the overall simplicity: dark booths, concrete
floor, reclaimed chandeliers, white tablecloth, small flowers in the jar, and
barely lit candle. There’s no big Sunflower setting in the host area or some
overpriced local artwork, the gaudiest interior touches are dark wooden frames
strewn along the wall. For Glendale, this is refreshing, as are the genuine feeling of welcome, warmth and friendliness from
everyone I encountered. Also, don’t forget the beautiful outdoor patio. The
patio features candle-bedecked tables, vine-covered roof and live Bossa nova. Warm romantic night? Look no further!
In a way, Recess is an all-day eatery, featuring Chef
Sevan’s interpretation of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-inspired fare. The
menu is customized to cater many different personalities. For Breakfast or
lunch, you can find your Buttermilk Waffles, Egg Benedict, or Gourmet Burger
along with Chef inspired salads like Edamame Fatoush, Caprese Vasken (tomato,
burrata, prosciutto, etc.), and Salmon Soba. But dinner is the way to go! I
can’t specify a genre but the lineup leans toward a Cal-Mediterranean cuisine
with some French and Asian influences. Heartier fares like Lamb Racks, Maine
Lobster, and Dungeness crab are served with lebni chimicurri or mizuna
(Japanese mustard).
Below are the dishes presented to me:
Duck Brie Flatbread
We started the night with a flatbread topped with crispy
duck, melted brie, gorgonzola, pears and dried figs. I love how the salty duck (presumably
cooked confit) balance out with the sweetness of the pears and the tanginess of
the figs. The brie was good too – creamy while providing subtle nuttiness to
the pizza. My slight criticism is that I wish there were more gorgonzola – I
was waiting for that strong salty pungent goodness – guess it just got masked
with all the other good stuff.